Shear Genius Clay Bars

• Two clay grades in one kit, so you’re ready no matter how embedded the contamination
• Fine grade for delicate finishes and lightly contaminated cars, medium for tougher decon jobs and harder paint types
• Storage case included so clay can be stored between jobs without getting contaminated
• Ideal clay starter bundle

1. Leave the car wet after washing/rinsing - don't dry it
2. Spray Born Slippy onto the area of a panel you are claying
3. Always start with Easy Glider (yellow) gentle clay if you don't know how hard your paint is; the green Mother Plucker clay is more aggressive and it is better to start with a fine grade clay and then work up to a heavier grade than risk inadvertently marring the panel (a misty/cloudy/dullness to the paint that may need polishing out after)
4. Tear off a small amount of clay and roll into a ball before flattening the clay piece into a small pancake, about two or three fingers wide
5. Move the clay over the lubricated surface, you'll feel - and even hear - the embedded contamination in the paint, and the clay will start gliding more freely as this contamination is removed
6. When the clay pad face becomes dirty, fold it in on itself and reflatten
7. After a couple of folds the clay is done, throw it away and grab another piece
8. Repeat the process over whole panels, then the whole car including glass and even wheels (avoid sensitive finishes and fabric roofs etc) - you will only use as much clay as you need to
9. Clay once or twice a year, or before adding a new long term wax or sealant layer (it's a deep clean for your paint); garaged or covered cars need claying less
10. If the paint seems dull or matt afterwards then clay marring may have occurred, a grazing of the paint caused by a harsh clay, lack of clay lubrication, too much pressure or an unsympathetic technique on delicate paint... don't panic, it polishes out really easily by hand or machine; try Critical Finish with a Blue Roo applicator pad if you don't have a machine polisher and your glossy paintwork should return a few passes later.

Which bar do I use first?
Always start with the fine (yellow) grade. Only go to medium if the fine grade isn’t removing enough contamination, or if the paint can handle the extra aggression and you'll be polishing afterwards anyway.

Should I clay after every wash?
No, only use it when the paint feels rough and if you're sure the paint can take it (hard German paint should be fine, and use Born Slippy, too). Every 6-12 months or when recoating a wax or sealant is a good interval.

What’s clay best at removing?
Detailing clay will tackle iron fallout, tar specks, tree sap and even light overspray spots - as well as general embedded grime.

Will it remove swirls?
Not at all. It is a deep cleanse of the paint, plucking and shearing contaminants that are stuck into the paint surface and cannot clean 'sub-surface' contamination deep within the paint or polish out swirls. You will need a polish (or ideally machine polisher kit) to remove swirls.

What is the point of claying?
Claying removes the particles stuck into paint that feel rough to the touch; these not only prevent your paint shining fully but they also attract further contaminants - and if you don't remove them they can be pushed deeper and deeper into the paint and become more embedded. So pluck and shear them out with clay, it's effectively a deep clean of your paint. Your paint will feel silky and smooth after, repelling dirt better and shining harder than before.

What if I see a matt or mottled appearance to the gloss paint after claying?
This is clay marring, a minor paint defect that normally looks far worse than it really is. In effect, it is a grazing of the paint caused by a harsh clay, lack of clay lubrication, too much pressure or an unsympathetic technique on delicate paint... don't panic, it polishes out really easily by hand or machine; try Critical Finish with a Blue Roo applicator pad if you don't have a machine polisher and your glossy paintwork should return a few passes later.