Critical Finish

• Ultra fine finishing polish for maximum safety on all paint types and maximum gloss/refinement
• Removes haze and micro-marring from previous polishing stages
• Ideal for softer Japanese or custom paint types, will not create secondary marring
• Leaves paint ready for wax or sealant (panelwipe with Dodo Juice Stripp-Ex under sealant for best longevity)

1. Apply sparingly with a Blue Roo by hand or by machine with a soft finishing pad
2. If by hand, use light pressure to work the polish into the paint/clearcoat - if by machine, do a set of multiple passes
3. Buff off after with a clean microfibre
4. Check for rehazing after 5 minutes and buff with a clean turned side of the original cloth
5. Repeat as necessary to remove minor swirls and blemishes best results will always be with a machine polisher
6. For deeper defects, consider the use of Lime Prime or Depth Charge with heavier cut polishing techniques (machine polishing with more aggressive pads etc)

How much cut does it have?
Critical Finish has minimal cut and is mainly used for refining a finish to produce ultimate gloss at the end of a polishing programme; however, it does have an ultra-fine/fine amount of cut and will remover minor swirls, clay marring etc with the correct techniques. It is perhaps more suited to softer paint types (Japanese cars, custom or classic paint etc). For heavier cut use Lime Prime (fine cut) or Depth Charge (medium cut).

Can I use it by hand?
Yes, but machine application always gives the best results.

Will it fill defects?
Not much, it refines and enhances by removing and smoothing rather than filling. Always use a panelwipe like Dodo Juice Stripp-Ex after polishing to see the 'true finish' achieved.

When should I use it?
After heavier polishing stages to refine further/increase gloss, or for swirl or mark removal on soft or delicate paint finishes. Being ultra-fine it is the safest polish to go for, if unsure what polish type to use on your paint. This is why it is found in certain bundles/kits.